Unknown Maker, Turkish

The form of the kaftan, a sleeved, full-length robe with buttoned-front opening, traveled to Turkey by way of Persia. The open coat derives from Central Asian prototypes developed as functional cavalry garments that could be donned or removed easily while on horseback. This style has dominated men’s silhouettes throughout the Islamic world, showing subtle differences in shape and diverse textile treatments.

During the Ottoman period (1299-1923), the kaftan, the most visible male garment, served alone and in layers as the perfect medium for display of the empire’s textile riches and technical expertise. The liquid silk velvet here conveys power and wealth in its technical sophistication and its regal red color. Because the basic kaftan shape was worn by men at all levels of society, in addition to the quality of fabric, the width of the sleeve and length of the garment determined status, with non-Muslims restricted to wearing narrow, short sleeves.